Things You Need to Know About European Car Insurance
The concept of European Car Insurance has two derivatives. The first one is for people whose car may have originally been bought in UK however they need a European Car insurance for a short visit and the second one is for the inhabitants of Europe.
To obtain a European car insurance one doesn’t need to be a resident of Europe. Usually, a Certificate of Motor Insurance is sufficient. However, European Residence makes the process much simpler. It also makes it that much easier for your car not to get impounded if it was to get involved in a road accident in Europe. Since we are on this subject, remember that Europeans drive on the left side of the road, and that may take a little getting used to. Most car insurance companies will be able to help you with one, on request. A green card serves as an international badge or as proof of insurance hence, it is recommended for you to possess one.
The cost normally soars a little bit when the vehicle is taken abroad. However, you can opt for temporary cover, to ensure that your budget falls back in place after the visit. Your insurance company should be able to give you the details on the nuts and bolts of how much you will be stretching your cover if you were to drive around in Europe. Usually there is a change in the breakdown cover because the cost of replacement of automobile parts varies in different countries.
European car insurance does not always come with legal or breakdown insurance unless it is specifically asked for. You will surely need to look around a little bit before you can zero in, on an affordable European car insurance option.
The website Stuart Collins & Co. offer comprehensive deals on European car Insurance and they even include frills that one may need, to drive around in Europe. They offer short and long term cover plans as well, and can be a good point of contact, to begin with.
About a week before you set out for Europe; remember to get the car serviced. Since you will be using the vehicle more than you do normally, ensure that your mechanic services it accordingly. Some repair mechanics also help you adjust the car headlights, as it would be preferred in Europe. What you spend on your European car insurance can be recovered through the fuel cost because petrol in Europe in fairly inexpensive.
Prolong Your Cars Life With Quality Car Parts and Car Engines
A new Car for any home is like the addition of a new member to the family and owners take great pride and great pains to maintain the beauty and upkeep of the Car. Although a Car seems like a single object, it is in fact made up of thousands of parts, big and small. None of them is less important than another and all parts work in tandem together to make up a whole unit of a single Car. But as time goes by, the Cars start to age just like any other thing in this world. The truth is that with usage over the years, the Car itself and Car parts, including the Car Engine, start wearing down due to the wear and tear, and daily usage.
The Car Engine and Car parts start wearing down after a few years of driving a Car, and if the use of the Car is heavy, they may even start wearing down in a few months. The only option in this situation is to replace the Car Engine and Parts with new ones. Car Engines and Car parts can last longer with regular maintenance and servicing, and you may not have to spend as much on replacing the engine/parts if you are careful and stick to a proper schedule of maintenance and servicing. There are hundreds of parts that suffer wear and tear due to heavy usage and some of these parts are more prone to wearing down than others. Some of the parts of a Car that suffer heavy wear and tear are the Car Engine, Brakes and brake liners, Carburetor, Belts, Air Filter, starter, Clutch, gearbox, ignition coil, oil filter, spark plugs, etc.
The Car Engine is the heart of a Car and is made up of many hundreds of parts and components, although it looks like a single unit. A problem with a single component could stall the car. A problem with the engine or any other car part leads to inefficient use of the cars potential. Some of the parts are more important and crucial, not only for the smooth running of the car, but also for the safety of the driver and passengers of the car. One such part or unit of the Car is the Brake system. The braking system of a car is the most important unit or part of a Car. Without a proper braking system or worn out brakes, a Car is dangerous not only for its passengers, but also pedestrians and other cars. A speeding car with improper braking system or worn out brakes, can quickly turn into a deadly projectile and cause irreparable damage, if the brakes fail. Therefore, t braking system of a car must be in top condition and be maintained and checked regularly for wear and tear of the brake disks, brake liners, and brake oil.
Just like the braking system of a Car, there are other crucial and important Car parts, which should be taken care of and serviced, maintained, or replaced on a regular basis. The Car Engine, which is the heart of the Car should be serviced and maintained regularly to ensure a long life for the Car. If a Car Engine is not working properly even after servicing and maintenance, it should be replaced as quickly as possible. A properly serviced and maintained Car is a friend in deed and will never fail you in times of critical medical emergencies, or family outings, and will always be at your service. A well maintained Car with properly serviced, maintained Car parts and Car Engine is a life long friend.
Green Chemicals: The Perfect Solution for Auto & Truck Detailing
Detailing automobiles and trucks can be one of the most difficult and challenging cleaning applications out there. It requires patience and determination to restore the dirtiest automobile surfaces back to a like-new appeal. This is particularly essential for used car dealerships and auto detailing professionals, who face this challenging task every day. The ultimate solution for these professionals is the use of green chemicals. Many of the chemicals on the market are formulated with harsh, abrasive chemicals and detergents that can harm both the user and the environment. Most car and truck detailing applications take place outdoors and result in a great deal of runoff into the environment. Harsh, harmful chemicals can be very detrimental to the health of the surrounding environment. Additionally, the use of such abrasive chemicals may actually cause harm to the vehicle surfaces. Green chemicals, on the other hand, will allow auto and truck detailers to achieve the same powerful effects that other chemicals on the market can achieve without the risk of harming the user, the environment, or the vehicle. This is due, in part, to the composition of green chemicals. Formulated with plant-based, food-grade ingredients, green chemicals are toxin-free, chlorine-free, non-corrosive, non-caustic. This makes them safe for all users, people, plants, and animals. In fact, even if the user gets the diluted solution in their eyes or on their skin, they simply just rinse it off. Not only are green chemicals safe for the user, but their biodegradable nature makes them safe for virtually all environments. When washing cars, the free rinsing formula of car wash green chemicals allows for easy washing without worrying about how the runoff of the chemical will affect the environment. Other green chemicals where this free rinsing ability will prove highly beneficial is in truck wash formulas designed for use with pressure washers. Taking into account the entirely safe nature of green chemicals, some users may be asking how they can be as effective as the harsher but powerful chemicals on the market. Green chemicals are comprised of nano-sized micelles molecules. At a size 50-100x smaller than traditional soaps and detergents, micelles can penetrate the molecules of grease, mud, dirt, soil, and other residues to break the carbon bonds holding the molecules together. This blasts the dirt and grease molecules into billions of tiny particles emulsified in water; forcing the resulting particle to repel one another to prevent them from re-depositing onto cleaned vehicle surfaces. The unique cleaning action of green chemicals can be found in a wide variety of formulations, including: truck washes, steam car washes, brake dust removers, shields against brake dust for wheel surfaces, engine cleaners, glass cleaners, windshield washes, windshield protectors against rain, bug removers, and more. No matter what type or types of green chemicals you choose, they will get the job done right while maintaining the health and wellbeing of the user and the environment. With green chemicals you can’t go wrong.
Industrial Packaging Coming Up With Innovation and Revolution!
Have you analyzed the current marketplace, domestic and international? If not, then be aware that the packaging revolution & innovation are on the verge of explosion. With increasing market demand and growing economy you will need complete industrial packaging solutions for your products to ensure minimal damage during transport and handling. To set your mind at ease, Nefab guarantees that they will provide you with the best packaging solutions and custom packaging designs to lower your overall costs.
Industry today is busy to say the least, and companies are demanding a complete packaging solution provider with global ties to ease their global marketing & sales initiatives. Industrial companies today are dependent on many ways to constantly improve their products in their customers mind… and one way to do this is through packaging. If you are really interested in industrial packaging, you need to understand your requirements, products and overall method of handling and transport. You can rest assure that Nefab is the packaging company with the best solution regarding your requirements. Nefab has in-house design capabilities from testing laboratories to packaging engineers, global presence, and complete packaging solutions for the transport packaging industry.
Competition in the industry is so fierce that you need to take a good review about all the companies related to industrial packaging to select the most resourceful company. So for these reasons manufacturers, freight forwarders and companies that do international shipping have to find new & innovative ways to make their products more safe and secure while transferring. Therefore you as a manufacturer need to be more competitive to show your customers that you take everything into consideration, especially getting them the products they want in-time and damage free.
So before deciding the company for your industrial packaging requirements make them understand your needs and demands and take their input regarding their approach to deal with your products. Outsource your packaging needs to the company who are well known in the market with there approach, resources, credibility, materials and equipments catering to your products packaging needs. And one of the most important points of consideration is the turnaround time. Considering these points, market demand and your requirement select the best industrial packaging company from the lot – call Nefab today!
Honda Reveals New Concepts at Iaa Frankfurt and More
Honda Motor Europe Ltd., the Japanese automaker’s European arm has recently stirred the crowd at the 2007 International Motor Show (IAA) in Frankfurt, Germany with the display of Accord Tourer Concept. According to a Honda official press release, the premiere of the Accord Tourer Concept at IAA Frankfurt showcase the design characteristics of the all new Accord Tourer production model that is scheduled to hit the European market starting in 2008.
The Honda Accord Tourer Concept presented at IAA Frankfurt features a wider, lower, and sportier look compared to other Honda Accord models. The aggressive and sporty exterior styling of the Honda Accord Tourer Concept is complemented by the car’s comfortable and functional interior with spacious cabin. This offers a “strong degree of versatility and practicality,” according to the Japanese automaker.
At the heart of this new Honda concept comes a 2.0 or a 2.4-litre two i-VTEC petrol engine. Honda is also planning to include the newly developed 2.2-litre i-DTEC next-generation diesel engine in the powertrain lineup. All engines comply with the EURO 5 emissions standards. Other details of the Honda Accord Tourer Concept will be revealed at the upcoming 2008 Geneva Motor Show when the Japanese automaker unveils the production model for this concept. Probably standard Honda parts like Honda cornering light will be included in the production model.
Meanwhile, Honda Motor Europe Ltd. is also poised to present other production and concept models, as well as new powertrain systems at the IAA Frankfurt. First off is Small Hybrid Sports Concept that was developed at Honda R&D in Offenbach, Germany. This environmental friendly concept model features the advancement of hybrid technology combined with the aggressive driving characteristics of a sports car model. European car fans should expect this new concept to have these features like IMA petrol/electric hybrid powertrain system, two-door sports coupe design, short front and rear overhangs, accentuated arrow-like nose, one-piece glass roof, additional vertical window, good power to weight ratio, and 2,350 mm.
Also on the Honda stand is the Civic Hybrid 24H Race. This model will be on the “Sports” section at IAA Frankfurt and will join the Honda RA107 F1 race car. The Honda “Sports” stand will also feature the other high performance Honda vehicle models and will showcase the company’s heritage in motor sports. Other models include the 1967 RA300 race car, and the production models of the Honda Civic Type R and Honda S2000. In addition, Honda will also present the Repsol Honda RC212V 800 cc motorcycle that currently competes in MotoGP.
Lexus Is-f to Debut at Geneva Motor Show
Lexus is presenting the European premiere of its new F-marque called the IS-F. The said model will make its debut at this year’s Geneva Motor Show.
Geneva’s auto center stage is preparing for the introduction of the IS-F as a sports saloon from the fast-rising division of the Toyota Motor Corp. The center stage will also be shared with the LF-A supercar concept.
For ultra-high performance and exceptional sports driving dynamics, Lexus will is setting the F designation to mark its specially engineered cars. The F-badged models radiate power and outstanding handling as well as driving dynamics. To further emphasize its capabilities and potentials, Lexus engaged in the pursuit towards perfects. This venture, which is aimed at pushing the limits of automotive engineering, is now being recognized by the global auto industry.
The Lexus IS-F is powered by a 5.0-litre V8 that is capable of generating over 400 DIN horsepower and 500 Nm of torque. The acceleration of the car from rest to 62mph could reach top speed in a matter of 4.9 seconds. Aside from the remarkable engine power, it also boasts of its environment-friendly nature. The carbon dioxide emissions of 290g/km made the Lexus IS-F one of the cleanest sports saloons in its class – it is also one of the most powerful.
The IS-F sedan, which debuted at the 2007 North American International Auto Show (NAIAS) in January, does not only boast the two-stage intake system, engine oil and transmission fluid coolers and an oil pump designed for high-speed cornering, it offers more captivating features to lure even the young generation of drivers. The latter are said to be more meticulous in choosing cars.
The transmission of the car is based on the automaker’s world-first eight-speed automatic. The said feature debuted last year in the new Lexus LS460. Now, it is especially tuned for the Lexus IS-F with a new sports shift control. The latter allows the driver to pick a manual mode by just using the fully automatic gear selection or the paddle shifts on the steering wheel. To get the quickest up-shifting accessible for the segment at 100 milliseconds, the driver can opt to use the sports shift control.
The sporty character of the car is enhanced by the switchable VDIM (Vehicle Dynamics Integrated Management) feature. The latter allows the driver to choose Normal, Sport or Off settings depending on his discretion.
The Lexus LF-A supercar concept, on the other hand, is the product of the automaker’s sports engineering team’s success in formulating a new and practical approach to auto design engineering for a more compact and fuel-efficient supercar concept powered by a 5.0-litre V10.
The LF-A concept measures 4,400mm in length. So far, it is the most compact and most powerful car in the Lexus lineup. The racing-inspired V10 engine produces over 500 DIN horsepower, giving the car a top speed of approximately 200mph. The forward/mid-engine location with rear-mounted transaxle and radiators gives the car ideal front/rear weight distribution and splendid handling exactitude. The V10 is further boosted by the efficient Lexus cold air intake providing cool breeze to achieve utmost engine efficiency.
Both the Lexus IS-F and the LF-A showcase the advancement in auto technology of Lexus as a result of rigorous studies and testing by its pool of engineers. The remarkable standing of the automaker is also highly-commended in the hybrid manufacture. The Lexus hybrid system is a combination of refinement and sophistication. These qualities are obvious in both the Lexus IS-F and the Lexus LF-A.
The automaker’s auto parts blended with the distinct qualities of Lexus make smooth, catchy, powerful and flexible luxury cars for every one to take pleasure in driving.
Catch My Drift? the Japanese Street Craze of Drifting
A group of young Japanese cheer “Sugoi Yo” (yo, that’s cool!) as the Nissan 350Z slides round the corner at a 45 degree slant, deep in the industrial sector of Yokohama – Japan’s third largest city. As the smoke from the burning tyres clears, the spider web of black marks on the grey concrete surface become visible, proof of the popularity of this circuit. Welcome to the world of the drifters; a subculture of Japanese who meet to test their driving skills, show off their souped up hot rods and burn a lot of rubber.
The word ‘Drifting’ describes a cornering technique where the front wheels of the car point in the opposite direction to the turn, resulting in the car sliding round the corner almost at right angles to the turn – effectively a controlled skid. The practice has long been used in various forms of motor spot racing, such as rallying and early Grand Prix, but it was a young Japanese boy racer, Keiichi Tsuchiya who is credited with popularising drifting. Tsuchiya later went on to win several major motor sport titles and become a drifting legend despite having his race license suspended during his early career, due to his continuing participation in street racing.
Tsuchiya has now retired from both professional and street racing, but is revered internationally for his drifting skills, and his contribution to drifting was recently honoured by his cameo performance in the street racing movie “The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift”.
Today, drifting is still very popular with the Japanese and the DI Grand Prix is a major fixture in the motor sport calendar, but it is the culture of street drifting that has captured the imagination of many car fans across the world, and has for a large part been popularised through drifting videos that have been posted on the internet by drivers and their fans.
The flamboyant, crowd pleasing and rebellious nature of street Drifting has spawned several Japanese manga (comic books) that are based on the practice. Keiichi Tsuchiya is an editorial supervisor of the title “Initial D” which focuses on the world of drifting and Touge (pronounced Toe-gay). Touge literally means “pass” and has come to describe a form of racing in Japan, where drivers use narrow, winding mountain roads to test their driving skills against each other.
Street drifting has since spread around the world, and is popular in the USA, UK, Europe and the drifting craze has even reached the Middle East.
The Station Wagon
Station wagons have come a long way. Many recall the station wagon as that faux wood panel sided vehicle from the 70s, loaded with kids, prepared for any vacation. Today’s station wagons are quite luxurious and not the station wagon of old, as technically most SUV’s are considered a modern form of a station wagons – just to name one way they have changed.
The definition of a station wagon is any passenger automobile whose body style has a roofline that extends into the rear cargo space. This does not include hatchbacks, as the full height of the cabin does not actually extend all the way to the back as it slopes into the hatch. Station wagons also have side windows over the cargo area, whereas some hatchbacks have thick “C” pillars and no cargo area windows. According to Wikipedia, there are only two exceptions to this rule which include Rambler station wagons (1952–62) on which the roof line subtly dipped down over the cargo area, and GM’s Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser (1964–72) and Buick Sport Wagon (1964–69) on which the rear roof section was slightly elevated and combined with three (1968-69 Buick, 1968-72 Olds) or four (1964–67) skylights; the “sportwagon” name has been popularized again in recent years by some manufacturers. Certain models of Land Rover have also been described by the manufacturer as station wagons (even in British usage); as these vehicles had a tall wagon-like body with extra “alpine lights”, or windows, above the cargo bay side windows.
The first station wagons got their name due to being used by train companies. The vehicles were originally called “depot hacks” because they were used around train depots as hacks (short for hackney carriage, an old name for taxis). They also came to be known as “carryalls” and “suburbans”. The name “station wagon” is a derivative of “depot hack”; it was a wagon that carried people and luggage from the train station to various local destinations.
Prior to the mid-1930s, hardwoods were used by most automotive companies in framing the passenger compartments of their passenger vehicles. In automobiles, the framing was sheathed in steel that was then covered in colored lacquers for protection. Eventually, all steel bodies were adopted because of their strength, cost and durability.
Because early station wagons were used for commercial purposes, for many years they were considered commercial vehicles rather than consumer vehicles. In 1922 Essex introduced the first affordable enclosed automobile, which then shifted the auto industry away from open vehicles towards meeting consumer demand for enclosed automobiles. Station wagons too, began to be enclosed, especially in higher price categories.
As time went by, the car companies themselves began building their own station wagons. Star (a division of Durant Motors) is usually credited as being the first car company to offer a factory-built station wagon, beginning in 1923. By 1929 Ford was by far the biggest seller of station wagons. Since Ford owned its own hardwood forest and mills, it began supplying the components for a Model A wagon (although initially some final assembly would still take place away from the factory. The same year, J. T. Cantrell put woodie bodies on Chrysler vehicles (persisting until 1931).
Traditionally, full-sized American station wagons were configured for 6 or 9 passengers. The basic arrangement for seating six was three passengers in the front and three passengers in the rear, all on bench-type seats; to accommodate nine, a third bench seat – often facing backward, but sometimes facing forward or sideways – was installed in the rear cargo area, over the rear axle. In Ford and Mercury wagons built after 1964, the configuration was changed to two seats facing each other, placed behind the rear axle.
Newer models are usually built on smaller platforms and accommodate five or six passengers (depending on whether bucket or bench seats are fitted in front). Full-size SUVs such as the Chevrolet Suburban and Ford Expedition have similar features to the aforementioned full-size station wagons; such as 9-passenger seating with bench seating in the front.
Despite the size or year, station wagons have come a long way since originating at train stations. People have come to enjoy having enough room in their vehicles of which they can carry family, friends and belongings anywhere they would like.
2007 Lexus LS 460 Review
The new 2007 Lexus LS 460, the largest and most expensive sedan by Lexus is by far the best release so far by the luxury division of Toyota Motor Corporation. This fourth generation of the full-size RWD, which has been, for eighteen years, the flagship of Lexus has a more attractive and even more aggressive stance, thanks to Lexus new design style, L-Finesse.
The state-of-the-art exterior lighting features a Dual-swivel Adaptive Front Lighting System, with High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps which are more energy-effective, durable, and brighter than conventional halogen headlamps.
The Intuitive Parking Assist uses sensors to alert drivers when they get too close to other parked cars, and with the help of the Advanced Parking Guidance System, this car will virtually park itself. The electrochromic outside mirrors automatically reduce glare, when the light is too bright. A Smart Access Key activates both the doors and the ignition. The 19-inch wheels ensure an increased accuracy on handling.
The interior offers one of the most luxurious, executive-class seating available on the market: leather-trimmed seats, with a memory system which holds the driver’s and the passenger’s favorite position, the 8 GB hard-disk on the surround sound audio system, the voice-activated navigation system are but a few of the features which add up to making the Lexus LS 460 2007 one of the most comfortable cars available on the market.
A 4.6 liter engine with 380 hp and 367 lb-ft of torque (an amazing 36 percent more powerful than its predecessor) is actually the world’s first V8 engine which combines port and direct fuel injection, powering an acceleration from 0 to 100 km/h in a staggering 5.4 seconds.
Another novelty is the eight-speed automatic transmission, which, together with the direct injection system and the dual variable valve timing, significantly reduce fuel consumption and emissions, earning this model a well-deserved certification as an Ultra-Low Emission Vehicle (ULEV II). The Dynamic Radar Cruise Control helps maintain a safe distance from car in front, and the Electronic Controlled Braking (ECB) system is set to increase the level of safety both in critical situations and while parking the car.
Its safety features include sophisticated airbag placement, for optimal protection for all passengers, the ECB, as mentioned above, ABS, both prepared by the Pre-Collision System, an advanced Tire Pressure Monitor System, and three-points seatbelts, ensuring a high level of protection in critical situations.
All features considered, the Lexus LS 460 2007 takes this combination of luxury, manageability and safety to new heights, bringing it ever closer to the much more expensive sedans from Rolls-Royce and Maybach.
Tire size FAQ
Generic Auto Tire FAQ
compiled by Bill Del Vecchio
Generic Auto Tire FAQ
Introduction:
This FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) was assembled to address some of the most common inquiries received in the Compuserve CARS forum regarding the basics of tire selection, sizing and shopping. It attempts to give an overview covering typical consumer concerns when shopping for DOT-approved passenger car tires in the U.S. and/or Canada. Variations not covered include older, historical standards, non-US designations, truck tires and other specialty applications.
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Table Of Contents
1. What do all those sidewall markings mean?
A. Size (i.e. 205/60-15)
B. Speed Rating (i.e. H, V, Z)
C. Load Index (i.e. 89, 92, 94)
D. UTQG Ratings (Temperature, Traction, Treadwear)
E. M&S Designation
F. Max. Load
G. Max. Press
H. Type of Construction
I. DOT Serial Number
J. Manufacture Date (i.e. 134) 2. Tire Care: Inflation & Rotation
3. Alternate Sizing
A. Why Do It?
B. How do I calculate Tire Height and Rotations Per Mile?
C. Can I put wider tires on my stock rims?
D. What’s a Plus One, Plus Two or Plus Three conversion? 4. Buying Tires
A. What brands and models are best?
B. What factors are important to consider when choosing tires?
C. How do I choose between Performance, Touring and All Seasons?
D. Which All Season tires are best in the snow?
E. Where should I buy my tires? 5. What about snow tires?
6. What about buying new wheels with my tires?
7. What about tires for my SUVs or 4×4?
7. FAQ Sources, Bibliography and Revision History
8. Copyright & Other Important Information
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1.A. How do I read a tire’s sidewall to tell its size?
A tire’s size is expressed in the format WWW/AA-DD (i.e. 205/60-15) where WWW is the tire’s sidewall-to-sidewall Width in millimeters (205), AA is the Aspect ratio or profile of the tire which specifies the tire’s height as a percentage of its width (60% of 205 = 123mm) and DD is the diameter of the wheel that the tire is mounted on in inches (15 inches). If the size is shown as P205/60R15, the “P” stands for Passenger and the “R” is for Radial ply construction. Note that the width does not measure the tread, which can vary significantly between tires with the same nominal width, even within product lines from the same manufacturer.
What about an older tire that doesn’t list an aspect ratio?
For an older tire without an aspect ratio (i.e. 175R13), it’s generally assumed to be a 78 or 80 series tire, (i.e. 175/78R13 or 175/80R13). Note that for some European tire models, the default ration is 83. Fortunately, the practice of not listing the aspect ratio is getting less and less common.
1.B. Speed Rating
The speed rating was traditionally shown as a part of the tire’s size, i.e. “205/60VR15″. Since the inclusion of Load Ratings (see 1.C below), many manufacturers are now showing the speed rating after the size in combination with the load rating, i.e. “205/60R15 92V”. Commonly used speed ratings include:
Certified
Rating Top Speed
N 87 mph
Q 100 mph
S 112 mph
T 118 mph
U 124 mph
H 130 mph
V 149 mph*
Z over 149 mph
W 168 mph
Y 186 mph
* Originally, V was “over 130mph”. W and Y ratings are relatively new, hence the redundancy with Z, which will probably be dropped at some point in the future.
1.C. Load Index
The Load Index indicates the maximum weight the tire can carry at the maximum speed indicated by its speed rating. Some sample Load Rating Indices:
Rating Capacity (lbs)
75 853
82 1,047
85 1,135
87 1,201
88 1,235
91 1,356
92 1,389
93 1,433
105 2,039
1.D. UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading)
…rates three aspects of tire performance: Temperature, Traction and Treadwear. These grades are usually located together on the tire sidewall. Tire manufacturers do their own UTQG testing and assign their own grades. Some variations in testing are inherent due to the lack of controls. FWIW, experts usually agree that Treadwear is consistent within a given manufacturer’s product lines.
Temperature: A/B/C
Shows the tire’s ability to dissipate heat and its resistance to heat generation. “C” means that the tire meets minimal federal standards measured in laboratory testing, while “B” and “A” indicate increasingly better performance above the government minimum.
Traction: A/B/C
Grades straight-line wet braking performance. A is best, C is worst.
Treadwear: Numeric Grade
Rates the tire against a control standard with a defined rating of 100 when run on a test course. A rating of 300, for instance, indicates that the tire will give three times the mileage of the control tire. One rated 60 would be expected to wear out in 60% of the control tire’s mileage.
1.E. M&S Designation
Indicates an all-season tire designed for Mud & Snow use. Note that this does *not* mean that this is a “snow tire” (see Section 6).
1.F. Max. Load
This is the maximum static weight, usually in both pounds and kilograms, that the tire can support.
1.G. Max. Press.
The Maximum Pressure (usually in PSI and kPa) that the tire is designed to handle. This is *not* the recommended pressure, which is set by the car manufacturer and stated in the owners manual as well as on a sticker in the door jamb or glovebox lid (see Section 2).
1.H. Construction
The number and composition of the tread and sidewall plies are listed on the sidewall, for example:
Tread Plies: 2 polyester cord + 1 steel cord + 1 nylon cord
Sidewall Plies: 2 Polyester Cord
1.I. DOT Serial Number
All tires approved for street use in the U.S. by the Department of Transportation will display a DOT Serial Number.
1.J. Manufacture Date
All tires are coded to indicate the week of manufacture. Look for a three digit number following the DOT Serial Number. The date code will be stamped rather than molded. The first two digits are the week of the year in which the tire was manufactured (01 thru 52), followed by the final digit from the year of manufacture. A tire stamped “134″ was manufactured in the 13th week (the week of April 4th in this case) of 1994.
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2. Tire Care: Inflation & Rotation
What inflation pressure should I use in my tires?
As stated in 1.G. above, recommended tire pressures are set by the car manufacturer, not by the tire manufacturer. They’re stated in the owners manual as well as on a sticker in the door jamb or on the glovebox lid. It’s important to check pressures frequently; at least once a month – more often if you find that you’re losing pressure. For consistency, always measure pressures before driving when the tires are cold (parked for at least four hours; preferably overnight).
Tire pressure affects your car as follows:
Lower Pressures Higher Pressures
Ride more comfortable stiffer
Handling less precise better feel & turn-in
Wear more on edges more in the center
Gas mileage lower higher (less rolling resistance)
Tracking steady tends to follow grooves
Many car manufacturers are conservative (low) with their recommended pressures to maintain a comfortable ride. Drivers who push their cars fairly hard usually prefer a slightly higher setting. If you want to experiment, 32 all around is a good starting point – begin there adjust to your own preferences.
The outside temperature affects your tire pressures; a general rule of thumb is that a 10 degree fahrenheit change will change tire pressure by 1 psi. When temperatures are fluctuating, check your pressures more often. And if you check them in a heated garage, adjust for the colder outside temps.
How about rotation?
Recommendations for tire rotation patterns and mileage intervals vary; check your car’s Owners Manual and the tire manufacturer’s recommendations for some guidelines. As a general rule, rotation is advised at least every 10,000 miles. It may be prudent to rotate more often if you’re using ultra high performance tires that wear quickly, or if your car’s suspension settings tend to wear the tires at one end of the car at a much more rapid pace. Many people find it convenient and a helpful reminder to rotate their tires along with their oil change schedule, every 7,500 miles for the typical car or every other change for those with more frequent changes. YMMV!
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3.A. Alternate Sizing – Why Do It?
Variations from the OEM tire size are usually done to improve a car’s handling and performance. Except in the case of snow tires (see Section 5), a common goal is to get a wider tire and/or shorter sidewalls without changing the overall diameter of the tire. Wider tread width changes the tire’s contact patch and can lead to a big improvement in handling. In general, more rubber on the road provides a better grip. A shorter sidewall (lower aspect ratio) provides less flex which can improve turn-in, responsiveness and stability. Keeping the overall tire height as close to stock as possible reduces the chance that changes will impact the accuracy of the car’s speedometer and odometer, overall gearing, suspension dynamics and introduce potential clearance problems.
Note Well: With any change from the OEM size, clearance between the tire, fender, fender wells and suspension components is a vital concern. Also, expect variations from calculated tire dimensions; whenever possible, measure the actual, mounted tire.
3.B. How do I calculate Tire Height and Rotations Per Mile?
A tire’s theoretical height in inches is calculated as follows:
Height = (Width x (Ratio/100) x .03937 x 2) + Rim Diameter
The width multiplied by the aspect ratio over 100 gives the height in millimeters, multiplying by .03937 converts to inches, and doubling this accounts for the fact that there’s tire at the bottom and the top of the rim.
Rotations Per Mile (RPM) can be calculated as follows:
RPM = (inches per mile) / Tire Circumference
= (5280*12) / (Height*3.1416)
= 20,168 / Height
Some sample calculations of tire height and RPM are shown below:
Height RPM Error @60MPH Note:
205 60 15 24.69 817 – 60.0 Stock size
225 55 15 24.74 815 0.2% 60.1 Wider tire on stock
225 50 16 24.86 811 0.7% 60.4 Plus One
245 45 16 24.68 817 0.0% 60.0 Plus One
245 40 17 24.72 816 0.1% 60.1 Plus Two
245 35 18 24.75 815 0.3% 60.2 Plus Three
185 65 15 24.47 824 -0.9% 59.5 Snow tire alternative
It may be helpful to set up a simple spreadsheet to determine options. Height and RPM calculations are given above, while the error and speed at an indicated 60mph are calculated from the RPM as compared to the stock size. An error of less than 1% almost always indicates a very good match.
3.C. Can I put wider tires on my stock rims?
The cheapest way to pick up additional performance is usually to get a slightly wider tire with a lower aspect ratio for use on the stock rim. For example, a stock 205/60-15 tire can be replaced by a 225/50-15 with almost no variation in overall diameter. Note well that in addition to the clearance considerations listed above, the width of the stock rim also needs to be able to accommodate the wider tire. A 6″ wide rim easily accommodates a 205/60 tire, but is at the low end of recommended rim widths for most manufacturers’ 225/50 tires. Wherever possible, seek advice from the tire manufacturer or other owners of your car to see what width tire your stock rims can accommodate.
3.D. What’s a Plus One, Plus Two or Plus Three conversion?
Also shown as “+1″, “+2″ or “+3″, these designations indicate switching from stock rims to rims of 1, 2 or 3 inch larger diameter. Going to a larger diameter rim while keeping overall tire height about the same can allow for a significantly wider, shorter tire which can have a dramatic effect on a car’s handling, ride and appearance.
As shown in 2.B. above, potential replacements for a stock 205/60-15 can range from a prudent +1 combination like 225/50-16 to a rather outrageous 245/35-18 for a +3 conversion. Note that price increases are not linear; although 18 and even 19 inch tires and rims are available, they can cost several times what a 15 or 16 inch setup will run.
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4.A. Buying Tires – What brands and models are best?
There are no “best” choices. What’s good for you is highly dependent upon your car and your preferences. With that in mind, here’s a broad listing of some of the tires most frequently recommended by users of the CARS forum, broken down by type:
Ultra High Perf: Pirelli PZero, Bridgestone Expedia
High Performance: Dunlop SP8000* and D40M2*, Yokohama AVS Intermediate* and A509*, Pirelli P700Z, Bridgestone RE71, B.F. Goodrich Comp T/A 3, Goodyear GS-C
Touring: Pirelli P4000 M&S, Bridgestone Turanza M&S, Yokohama A378
All Season: Dunlop D60A2*, Pirelli P500, Yokohama AVS U+4, Michelin XGT V4
Race/Autocross: Yokohama A008 RS* and A008 RS II, B.F. Goodrich Comp T/A R1 (226 and 230 compound), Goodyear GS-CS
* CARS All-Stars – most frequent positive feedback from satisfied users
4.B. What factors are important to consider when choosing tires?
The best tire depends upon a wide variety of factors, and the more specific you can be when asking a pro for advice, the better advice you’re likely to receive:
What car, truck or minivan do you drive? What’s the stock tire size? Are you considering a change? How do you drive? Is your driving style aggressive, passive or in-between? Where do you drive? City, highway, back roads, mountains, at the track? In what kind of weather? What’s your regional climate? Is the car used year round? How much snow or heavy rain do you get? What’s most important to you? How would you prioritize traction, ride comfort, treadwear, steering response, handling and noise? What’s your price expectation? How important is value compared to the tire performance items you prioritized above? Do you have any particular brands or models in mind? Have you had good or bad experiences with any models in the past? How did your current tires perform?
4.C. How do I choose between Performance, Touring and All Seasons?
Tough question! Here are some random thoughts and notes to help:
Ultra High performance tires provide more traction and performance than can be used safely on the street. They are a waste of money for most drivers and most cars unless they are used as a dual purpose street/racing tire. Tire life under 10,000 miles should be expected on some car models. High Performance tires also provide more traction and performance than a responsible driver should be using on the street. But by doing so, they increase the safety margin in emergency handling maneuvers. There are some very competitive, cost-effective models in this classification; it isn’t necessary to spend big bucks to get a dramatic performance and safety improvement over original equipment tires. The “Touring” designation is relatively new. Definitions may vary between manufacturers, but most are marketed as competent year ’round performers that are better than an all-season for performance driving and better than a performance tire in slippery conditions. A true All Season tires has a “M+S” (mud & snow) designation on its sidewall. All Seasons usually do much better than performance tires in mud, snow or slush, but it’s something of a misconception that they also do better in wet conditions. In tire tests (see Section 7), performance tires did better in wet handling and braking than All Seasons. In general, All Seasons are a compromise solution that let you use the same tires year-round, even where snow is expected. Using performance tires and a set of snow tires (see Section 5) is recommended by many CARS forum regulars.
4.C. Which All Season tires do best in the snow?
Richard Engel [76614,3653] of The Tire Warehouse in Edmonton, Alberta offered that the Dunlop D65, Axiom and Sport 4000, Pirelli P300 and Yokohama Y370/Y378 are several top performers in the snow, but he’s quick to remind everyone that to get the best traction, you need a set of winter tires.
4.D. Where should I buy my tires?
Perhaps the best way to buy tires is to find a knowledgeable, local shop who has reasonable prices, competent service people, modern equipment and gives honest advice. As far as national chains, Super Shops have been recommended as a great place on all counts. Town Fair Tire stores in the Northeast sometimes have good prices if you negotiate, but their recommendations are frequently biased by what’s profitable or in stock and service can be spotty.
Among mail order firms, the Tire Rack at (800)428-8355 has been recommended hundreds of times for good advice, excellent availability and very competitive prices. If you call, ask for Robert at x307 or Scott at x343. Tire Rack also has a web presence at Tire Rack – Your performance experts for tires and wheels – it was new as of 4/96, but already a very impressive interface with good content and (very) speedy operation. Highly recommended!
Discount Tire Direct at (800)707-8473 also has retail outlets and does their best to beat Tire Rack’s pricing and delivery. TeleTire (800)835-8473 doesn’t carry as many manufacturers as some other firms, but also pledges to try to give the best price. EuroTire (800)631-0080 takes phone orders in addition to selling through their retail stores, but carries a limited brand selection.
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5. What about snow tires?
For snow tires, narrower and taller usually works better than the stock tire size, and some experts recommend considering a “Minus One” conversion, especially for cars equipped with wide tires. The sample calculations in 2.B. above are also used for determining narrower snow tires sizes and for Minus One conversions, i.e.:
Height RPM* Error @60MPH Note:
275 40 17 25.66 786 – 60.0 Stock size
205 60 16 25.69 785 0.1% 60.1 Minus One
Height RPM* Error @60MPH Note:
205 50 15 23.07 874 – 60.0 Stock size
185 55 15 23.01 876 -0.3% 59.8 Narrower Snow Tire on Stock Rim
For serious driving in the snow, regular or all-season tires are no match for a good set of four snow tires. Among CARS forum members, the most frequently mentioned models are the Pirelli 190P & 210P and the Bridgestone Blizzak. The Pirellis are a very good all-around choice for a snow tire with reasonable dry performance and treadwear expectations, and the new Pirelli S/P is a good choice for a severe duty, studdable tire.
The Blizzaks were only recently introduced, but already have a lot of fans. They provide great traction on slippery surfaces, but their dual compound tread design means that they may not be a good choice for all situations. Once the Blizzak’s tread is worn below 55%, it is designed to work as an all-season tire rather than a snow tire. This may work well for someone who puts high annual mileage on their car, expects to replace their tires yearly and prefers not to have to keep a second set of tire. By purchasing a new set of Blizzaks in the late fall, you can insure optimal snow traction throughout the winter. As the tires wear down, you get a competent all-season to use until the next replacement cycle. As an alternative, someone who puts lower mileage on their car can keep a set of Blizzaks through several winters by installing them just before snow starts and removed in early Spring.
Nokia Hakkapeliittas deserve a special mention as perhaps the premium snow tire which is used by more rallyists than any other brand. Because of limited distribution, they can be difficult to find, but several forum members have recommended Greer Enterprises in Milwaukee (414-744-0996) as a source for Nokia tires.
Do I *need* four snow tires?
The question of 2 vs. 4 snows has been raised several times. While convent- ional wisdom used to be that putting snows on the drive wheels was sufficient, more recent recommendations have been to use all four. Why? The primary concern is that snows and all-seasons have dramatically different handling characteristics.
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